In this video I test out E3D’s 0.15mm and 0.25mm diameter nozzles. I also compare these fine quality prints to 0.4mm and 0.6mm diameter nozzles.
Blog on the 0.15mm nozzle by E3D: https://goo.gl/QPSH22
Get my most up to date printer profiles for 0.15mm and 0.25mm nozzles: http://3dprintgeneral.com/portfolio/how-to-print-with-extremely-fine-nozzles-quality-comparison/
Printing with Large Diameter Nozzles video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAKBZiPBTss
Links for E3D Parts (Affiliate Links – no extra charge to you)
E3D Hotend: http://bit.ly/2sWFLIL
0.15mm Nozzle: http://bit.ly/2HPuLBy
0.25mm Nozzle: http://bit.ly/2ycFXsr
0.4mm Nozzle: http://bit.ly/2sVY2pw
0.6mm Nozzle: http://bit.ly/2MqjqM5
0.8mm Nozzle: http://bit.ly/2JTgF7f
All other E3D Parts: http://bit.ly/2JFaUen
Benchy boat 3D Design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
Einstein 3D Design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:966908
Upgrades for a Prusa I3 video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yt-zRo7kUY
Follow now for more free giveaways and 3D printing tutorials! Visit http://3dprintgeneral.com/ for products I have used in the past and approve, as well as a free instant quote on your print idea!
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What a stupid video
50,000 hours :-o, over 11 years worth of printing if you printed for 12 hours a day
Actually, difference between 0.15 mm nozzle and 0.30 isn’t x2. It’s x4.
You have to look at the area of the hole not the diameter.
wow, 13 HOURS?! for that small of a print! I rewound the vid like three times just to soak it in.. But the DETAIL.. Nice!
Im not able to download your profiles… i havent a email sent…
unsubs because of nails danm man
All look like crap lol
Do you have a link for that fan duct?
Nice. I like the book. Haven’t bought it but I would have when I was a newbie.
Thats some nasty finger nails…
IMO, we need a dual nozzle system, with both large and small nozzle. first print large details with large nozzle, then do detail fill-in with small nozzle.
this video is chock full of bad info
really scary shit
You wanna spiralize your outer contour boss, also youre gonna wanna look into retractration at layers
Cool vid but crap printer. Those benchies look awful.
dude, these prints suck BADLY! i’ve been using 0.25 and 0.15 from E3D and you’re not even close.. sorry :p
Nice video !! I want to know if you tried to use Simplify 3D to slice? Because that software has an option to optimize the printing speed.
Hi, Is there any way to use combination of different nozzle diameters installed in a dual extruder setup so that we can reduce printing time without losing outer surface finish ..
I suspect the trick with getting truly good quality prints from such a small nozzle is matching it with an extraordinary precise printer that can line up vertical layers very very precisely. at .15mm any deviation will result in ugly layering losing the advantage of such a fine nozzle. I just might have to shove one of these on my Ender and see how it performs!
0.6mm is draft?
for draft I use 1mm
Its about time for someone, somehow, implement a slicer function allowing the user to select specific parts of the model to be printed with different nozzle diameter (by using dual extruder or even pausing the print to allow nozzle-swaps). I know, it would be nearly impossible at the current nozzle’s geometry, but re-designing the nozzle a bit could allow this feature, even with some restrictions… Just thinking outloud… But who dares putting engineers’ talent in check nowadays? 😉
Can anybody put a “thumbs up!” for me?
I came for the secund time and I can only leave ONE “Thumbs up”…
Thanks for your colaboration.
Alexandre from Québec, Canada
@The 3D Print General
Do you have a manual on calibration and z height etc for delta 3d printers? I recently purchased the Delta Kossel RepRap Hackka v1 from ciciflyers off of ebay and they absolutely seem to refuse support for this DIY kit I’d be happy to purchase a guide that will work directly for this printer or better yet a video.
I purchased the printer and admit made my own choice to assemble it so the LCD and electronics are up on top of the printer vs underneath it so I can more easily adapt it and expand upon it or fix issues. The build seems to be rather nice as finished. The instruction from the seller to use the cura application saying it will be fine in any case caused the print head to jam into the bed because it uses G29 it should work he said it is automatic yet the firmware when dumped is of a Marlin v1.0.0 variety. In the process of printing a blob and digging into my print head before I stopped it I believe the print head got clogged as nothing extrudes out of the head now either.
So now I get to learn all the intricacies near instantly I suppose getting thrown into the fire is always good and provides the best path to learning and adaptation.
Woot in the middle of typing this I had a drill bit for board repair that helped me unclog this one of them spur of the moment memory recollections so that is taken care of now to figure out what is up with the calibration thing.
comparing with .4mm makes more sense
A little off-topic here, but I heard a pet peeve I hear so often these days. The term “4x smaller” makes a negative number. 1x smaller is zero. 2x smaller is -0.4, 3x smaller is -0.8 and 4x smaller is -1.2mm. That is impossible. People use multiplication instead of division. It’s 1/4, not 4x.
The mod-t can print at 250mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle. It’s a shame New Matter is going out of business, their printer(s? do they have more than one?) were very nice.
I print with a 0.60 noozle at 0.10mm without any problems and the resolution is really good on the top layer. Although I really enjoyed your evaluation, I dont think it is fair to compare different noozles using different layer heights and print speeds… it may be very misleading and confusing.