Comparing cheap Chinese 3D printers.

NEW/BETTER VERSION OF THIS VIDEO: https://youtu.be/huxCrAWa0pc

Comments

Soaps N Suds N Such says:

Recently noticed the STARTT 3D printer online, they say its only priced around 100 USD for the printer. Might be worth looking into.

dollars1234 says:

have you had any issues with the bowden setup? I have all the parts, but I was reading up and found that a lot of people prefer the direct extruder because the bowden jams up a lot. have you experience any of these issues?

Zii says:

For $130, fun project. I submitted an offer. Lets see if it goes though. I have an Folgertech FT5 as my main printer 🙂

digibluh says:

glass is the defacto standard, usually for a reason. Also there is a difference between a cheap Chinese lead screw and a proper one. doubtful there is a quality difference between the two in Z layer consistency. also the threaded rods non-precision is accounted for a much smaller step size per mm.

labidus74 says:

Tronyx is not a ANET A8, My A8 look better then the Tronyx anyway…

James Colby says:

wish i knew were to get em for 150 all i see them for is 170 to 400

Nasty Butter says:

One more question, I think. Is this safe to connect through USB to a Raspberry Pi 3? I have OctoPi. I did connect it with the printer power off, and everything came on because it was drawing power from the pi. If I turn the printers power on, do you think it is going to keep drawing power from the pi? I’m having trouble finding anything on google about this.

Donald Clifton says:

The feed on the CTC is utter crap. The instructions were worse. No note of where to plug in the second Z stepper. Buy something else!

Jboycs says:

Please don’t encourage to buy the one on the left. I have one and it is garbage. You are lucky to print above 50mm before the threaded rod starts binding. Good luck updating the firmware on that gt2560 too..

yul merced says:

dou know were i can get the ctc factory firmware i cant get mine working

Celcius1au says:

The board used on the left printer is a clone of a Geeetech 2560 board I have this printer and have done multiple upgrades, changed to a Bowden setup with a bulldog extruder and E3D hotend, BLtouch, Aluminium Bed with PEI sheet build platform and a Raspberry Pi controller.

Mark Williams says:

i just use manual mesh leveling turn it on in marlin u don’t need a sensor

Bill Karoly says:

how did you stiffen the machine on the right? do you have a link to your upgraded screen?

Alvin Gozali says:

Please keep in mind that the melzi does not support the 2004 LCD with the rotary click encoder. It does support the full graphics smart controller though.

James Meredith says:

I have the anet a8 and want to move to a ramps 1.4 could you possibly share your configuration.h file as it would help out a lot. Thanks

Zander's Channel says:

i have to printer on the left the china £150 one

ArcanePath360 says:

Holy crap that’s a lot of lateral movement in your A8! I would check your screws are all done up, there’s no way it should be that bad. Out of the box mine had about 5mm play at the top. I’ve got it down to hardly anything by downloading corner braces and anti z wobble parts from thingyverse and solvent welding in place.

Mark Williams says:

check out my vid of printing at 130mms on my CTC i3 😉

Jboycs says:

I will be willing to bet the only thing with the melzi is a burnt connector. I’ve ‘burnt up’ a melzi board a few times, just need to direct solder the wires like the power, bed etc.

Anonymous says:

I was going to Anet but after I saw you wiggling holy s***, I ‘m going for the CTC, at least it’s the original purse design. I bet the CTC with bowden flies!

Akegata42 says:

A proximity sensor with high enough sensing distance, like a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX, will work on the cheaper machine since there is an aluminium board under the glass bed.

Wild Kata says:

Is the $154 price on the melamine frame including shipping?

Capt. Cheese says:

Acme threaded lead screw

Heimdall Midgard says:

My new “original” Anet A8 is much more stable. With a little upgrade you can get it even more stable.

Zander's Channel says:

i was wondering if you could help me remove the extruder tip because i have a jam in it

Jeffrey Drake says:

Lead screw

Patrick Bodine says:

Got a link to the “other” printer? The one on the left. Thanks.

Rick Samuels says:

Thanks so much for your informative review.

Lee Tookey says:

I actually own both printers and I found that I agreed with most of what you said but with that I found that the Anet a8 clone out preformed the one on the left in your video. Great reviews on both machine by the way 🙂

tubejim101 says:

Great video!

Donald Goldsmith says:

I like your presentations so far… How about trying a different design printer and see what mods you can come up with. I just purchased a Creality CR-10 size is 12″x12″x16″ with a heated bed last month because the Print volume and printer cost finally aligned with my view of cost and practicality. I Love the minimal time & ease of assembly as well as the print quality/price/Print Volume and they have 2 larger models for rather reasonable prices. the design uses Aluminum Extrusions and should, if you were so inclined, be easy to DIY with upgrades. What say you??

King Parodije says:

that was lame. no printing comparison ?

Nasty Butter says:

I bought the one on the left through your link. The instructions are a nightmare lol. I had to decide to just build it like the instructions and wait to connect everything else to the motherboard last. The instructions tell me to connect something’s in a place on the board that will not fit because the I/O port is there for a different component, and the list of what devices the I/O ports are for within the instructions contradicts the setup step instructions that tell the incorrect ports mostly.
The list of what devices the I/O ports are intended for is incomplete within the instructions. I looked online at the board and what the I/O modules are for, and those contradict the list in the instructions.
Its a great buy, but the translation was poor. Can you send me a list of what device you connected to the corresponding number that is on the picture of the board on page 7 of the PDF that came on the disk, or a link to better instructions that you used? Thanks for posting the bid btw

Ralphie Vigg says:

Direct drive extruders are not “more accurate”..

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