Best 3D Printers from $200 to $1,000,000 (Yes, 1 Million Dollars!) 2018

There’s a 3D Printer for almost every price point. Here are my top picks!

Full write-up on our website – http://www.makersmuse.com/best3dprinters2018.html

3D Printer Buyers Guide eBook (for FDM machines) –
https://gumroad.com/products/NBvg/

3D Printing Essentials – https://www.amazon.com/shop/makersmuse

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Comments

BIll Geo says:

On the lower price point, I am between those 4: Anet A8, Anet E2, Tevo Tarantula, Ender-2. What would you choose and why??? Thanks

aval1998 says:

“Reliable printer that must never break down” -shows Stratasys UPrint

My college library has one of these that was donated and it always screams at us “Support Material Jam”

Billy V. says:

when i was working at an aerospace bearing company we had 2-3 of the $250000 machines and it was sweet to look at those prints, they were incredible, the prints were damn near perfect

MdeR Nier says:

*mao-ee

patrick - says:

I’m gonna try to look for one of these but just to get the word out DO NOT for any reason get an M3D, I wasted 300 last year on a micro and it’s an unreliable piece of garbage. I was able to get a few decent prints but at this point it can’t handle anything bigger than a keychain, a small, flat keychain, and that is with severe tinkering and heavy prayer

MHG Scrubadub says:

Looks like I’ll have to find a place to put my DMLS printer. Closet maybe?

CyberGolem says:

Is there a way to get around buying resin cartridges for the Form 2 from Formlabs?

Blackjack EXO says:

BUT CAN IT PRINT IN MERCURY

Reignand Bongao says:

huh. We have a reseller for the cubicon single here. Did not expect that. Time to save up guys. anyone wants a FFCP, heavily used? lol.

Zombie Fool says:

What is a “proshumer”?

S. Smith says:

I would think you can bake the rubbers, just under melt point, to fuse the layers.

dan86896 says:

so you are making a rewive from what you read on the producent homepage. how stupit is this

HB Jiang says:

when you dont want to say 69

Wector CZE 2.0 says:

why dont you have windows 10

00CrazyBob00 says:

What about the Eos p110 +- €125k
P396 +- €350k, p770 +- €750k and the p800 for € 1.000.000 al SLS printers. And don’t forget Hp mjf machines! They can print color!

OhFishyFish says:

Think about it this way: first widely available laser printer, the original HP LaserJet was released in 1985 for $3,495 US that’s about $8000 US today accounting for inflation. In 1990 HP LJ IIP was in the stores for under $1000.

APolly says:

Check out the Sintratec Printer https://sintratec.com . It’s a SLS printer made in Switzerland for 5’000$. It is used by some pharma companies, because they realized they could print medicine with it.

Denis Protopopov says:

Why do you recommend Prusa mk.3 if in your own review it failed lattice cube test with quite a flop?

Paddy.121 says:

Why not the Anycubic i3 mega for around $400?

guesswho kk says:

10:26 – Sindoh 3d is similar to Cubicon,
12:14 – It a shame you didn’t include continuous DLP desktop anywhere. https://youtu.be/obQZGmajcis Uniz could be beat Form2 with it quality, speed and price.

Form2 hardware:
It really isn’t that bad for it price, not brilliant e.g. If levelling calibration was ever messed up, you have no choice but to sent it back for repair.
Another hidden cost is the “tank” that only last 1-2 litre of use before replacing. i.e. high replacement cost (even with LT tanks).

https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000016184-Standard-Resin-Tank-Maintenance-and-Care

Also, to make it a cheaper smaller unit, they had to forsaken a smoother & gentler print, but in doing so it is printed upside down which subsequently causing other unintended consequences, e.g. constantly tilt model at a slant angle towards Z axis rather than built it flat (parallel to tank). Which is slow & noisy.

Form2 Software:
For general use is actually quite decent, but for anything specific like printing loads of details then it currently can’t utilise 64 bit PC to handle higher STL files e.g. above 200-300mb, and thus the software is slow (unless using a Mac).

16:27 – I don’t entirely agree, as some alternative prosumer FDM with dual nozzle + heated chamber + auto features e.g. calibration, have been popping up lately around this price point e.g. V-shaper, 3dgence & etc.

18:18 – sorry, but no! Nowadays it almost impossible to justify FDM at 200k, with this price you can get Carbon 3d, Coobx 3d, Desktop Metal & etc.

21:00 – I would have chosen Polyjet for this 500k category as well, but it kinda overshadowed by Carbon 3D “print time” eventhough carbon 3d still use traditional support structure.

Also, Polyjet was an old idea since early 2000 (i think)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMQWGBgNCtg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5scCMxuciY

25:00 – Most 3D printers will be reserved for prototyping and cannot be justified at $1m, even with 5 axis cnc additive & reductive or even DMLS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKnlmfuMSgo

S1N20Y says:

Hahahaha…..I might be 1 in a million. But when I worked with a Stratasys Uprint Se+, it would clog, destroy print beds, and was definitely costly via cartridges.

Angus Cos says:

What about the aldi printer

Ross Hayes says:

You missed the Titan robotics Atlas printer. That things is a beast and the deposition rates are madness.

Thobiex says:

“Tiny scale” my favourite scale!

RESUL POLAT says:

milleti kandırma da linki koy

Dan Solomon says:

It resists burning AND has high temp resistance!

alex b says:

EOS does have a metal printer for 250k€ with a workspace of a zylinder with a diameter of 200mm and a hight of 190mm. Also you only really need one person to handle the machine

snowcoal says:

you missed the dmg mori lasertec 65 3d. it prints metal without a bed full of powder and then machines it in the same system. it does both additive and subtractive manufacturing in one printer/cnc machine

Mr Heck says:

We are 10 years past the point where paying $800 for a RepRap is a good deal. No, just no.

Ausintune says:

I think 50,000 is good for enthusiasts

Matthews Fabrication says:

You didn’t mention the Raise3D. So you don’t recommend it anymore?

What about the LulzBot Taz 6 or Pulse Xe?

Thanks

snowcoal says:

my high school has a stratasys printer and HOLY SHIT is it easy to use. literally, you upload the part, adjust fill settings, hit print, it prints, you remove the tray, put part in wash to remove support material, let it dry, and ur done. the print quality is also amazing every time. damn tho i did not know they cost this much

Brett says:

Flashforge finder and Prusa i3 mk3 are my favorites

FieryWingedAngel says:

Somewhere, Lulzbot is weeping

elfpimp1 says:

Wow

Steven Arroyave says:

Good job!

Thomas Horst says:

Desktop Metal’s system could be the next big thing for metal printing. They won’t be cheap either, but it should start way less than EOS

JeffNotes says:

Ok I was just looking around for an exact video like this and you channel keeps on entertaining me and giving good info! Thanks so much! Count me in for a +sub! 🙂

Spike Roseman says:

Don’t forget about the Desktop Metal and markforged Metal X systems for a hair over $100K that print metals with Atomic Diffusion instead of DMLS!

luke magdalin says:

I bought the mono price mini 3d printer for $150 and it can print amazing prints on the finest settings

Soren Svensson says:

I don’t think you understand what is expensive for (even a small) business. $20000 to $100000 isn’t that big of a deal.

Evan Cole says:

Have you looked at the TEVO Standard Tarantula Prusa I3? It’s $170 and has gotten very good reviews.

ViiV Creations says:

lol next thing u know thieves will be scoping out expensive printers instead of robbing gas stations

Cooper campbell says:

they used something similar to the Eos 400 for Chris froomes handle bars

Uthael Killeanea says:

Hey, check out the dudes from sintratec.com
They wanted to make that $1M more affordable and have actually cut a few digits of the price.

ALet338 says:

One small addendum, the EOS M-400 is actually an SLM printer, which is slightly different from DMLS. Basically SLM actually melts the powder, while DMLS sinters it, heating it close to melting but not quite. If the M-400 is a bit too expensive for you, the M-290 is a bit smaller and does the same thing, and only costs around $800,000 used (not including peripherals of course). We have two M-290s where I work, and just got an M-400/1 that I’m excited to play around with. The M400/1 has a single 1kw laser, rather than the 4 weaker lasers of the M400/4, so it is potentially better for metals that are difficult to print at lower energies, like Tungsten

Chris Nielsen says:

There’s this company called Alunar that sells on amazon, they make clones like many other companies but they use nice parts and do something unique every once in a while that I recently got to partake in. They posted an item for sale labeled as a “certified repackaged” Anet A8 clone kit for $119 shipped. I knew it wouldn’t be pretty because people who return printer kits are (excuse my language) absolute motherfucking retarded morons who cant grasp basic concepts and expect fairytale shit to happen with this tech and tend to get angry when things don’t pan out. I bought it anyways, knowing I might get a lemon. It arrived within days (I was expecting a month or two) in a very VERY large box. I opened it and was greeted by not one, but several kits of varying models that had been returned for one reason or another, one had a superficial crack in the LCD mounting bracket (fixed with superglue), another appeared to have been assembled by an angry child who went full ree and curb-stomped the poor thing to death and stuffed it back in a box after they couldn’t get PLA to stick to a bare aluminum heated bed (surprisingly only acrylic parts and the extruder were damaged). And another which had a bad power supply. Several small parts were missing from the smashed one and one with a bad PSU, but I printed those parts, and turned one into a CNC router.

the i3 clones may not be the best on the world but if assembled correctly and bought at opportune moments they really pay off. Hell, even the one I built out of this batch has not yet had a failed print. Literally worked perfectly since the first time I plugged it in.

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