The Ender3 3D Printer Review – It Makes The Best Prints.

A review of the Creality Ender 3 3D printer from frame assembly to the test prints, and all the little details. This thing performs extremely well. NOTE: The filament spool holder issue has been remedied. Please see the pinned comment by Philafxs. Also, for those who are curious about the cork, it is a cork wall tile from my local hardware store. It is held in place by the springs under the bed. No adhesive necessary. Finally, I spoke incorrectly, the power supply is special because it is 24v vs the 12v we typically see.

The printer is $209 at Gearbest: https://goo.gl/ZFRccD

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Comments

Alexander Matta says:

Actually acrylic is not better in an enclosed chamber, Abs which is the thermoplastic probably used, has a higher heat deflection temperature than acrylic. It doesn’t matter if the acrylic thermoset or not, as enclosures dont even get close to the glass transition temperatures (let alone the melt temperatures) of abs.

terl0th says:

i dont get your value score. It says “$ per point”, but isnt that “points per 100 $”?

HenkFueltank says:

Thanks for the review, just bought my first printer using your link 🙂 And thank you for not creating a video that gives me instant adhd

Siana Gearz says:

I’m looking at this board and seeing what you’re not seeing, FTDI USB interface IC. It’s stupidly expensive but it’s robust. Often what you get on low-end boards is CH340G, and it’s just not the most reliable, tends to go out of sync and reset, but it costs nothing. I wonder though why nobody uses CP2104? It’s fairly inexpensive and not so terrible.

Given that the kit has a graphic LCD, you’re likely to have one programmable pin free on the LCD connector that you can use to add a single sensor or output. They probably have it routed out for filament runout detection, that’s what they probably use. But you can figure out some different single-pin extensions, and implementing an IO extender going from that is possible, but quite a bit of work. Doesn’t really make sense because you can just get a bigger chip.

I’m also not seeing what you’re probably not seeing, some flyback protection for the MOSFETs, but given i can’t see the MOSFETs, difficult to judge how relevant it is. I guess it’s “fine”, as you didn’t exactly expect this to be a premium board, especially given the I/O strapped processor.

And no, touchscreens are not nice, they may be nice to use but so far they’re a massive pain in the butt in any other regard.

Also you’re likely wrong about Acrylic being thermoset in this instance. There are thermoset acrylic polymers, but the laser cut flat extrusions that the alternative part is made from, plexiglas, should be thermoplastic PMMA, which melts at below 200°C, its melting behaviour and Tg is very similar to Polystyrene and PS-based plastics like ABS and HIPS, which this lid is probably made from. In fact PMMA would have been 3D printable if not for its horrible shrinkage behaviour, it just tends to crack when shrinking during cooling, which is also likely why you don’t usually see injection moulded PMMA parts, although i heard it could be done in principle. So there likely isn’t a disadvantage due to the change in the shroud holding the X switch, either has a limited hot chamber potential, probably not beyond 90°C, which should be fine really, because that’s not too easy to reach.

vonries says:

I noticed the same printer but with a EU plug is $179. Isn’t it just a matter of using a computer plug and switching a switch on the power supply to convert between the two? Or is there a problem I don’t understand? Btw I love your vids. You will get a handle on post editing I’m sure. All good things in due time.

FPV Jos says:

Do you have an stl for your test print?

Phizicks says:

your camera is a little too high to focus, that’s probably why, or choose manual focus when picking a specific item in the discussion

anonimuso says:

“Whoops, my little dribbly bits…”

Funniest explanation of a design flaw ever.

10goldfinger says:

I see a cork isolation under the heatbed! Stock or upgrade? If so, how did you fix it to the bed?

Loïc GOMES says:

Just use manual focus when not much is supposed to move. At least we can see something.

Krzysztof Sielewicz says:

Hello, what would you recommend for my first 3D printer: The Creality Ender 3, Tarantula or Creality CR-10? Regards, Krzysztof

Matt Merkle says:

Please do not play down mains AC power again. 120V AC is more than enough to kill. Just because you took a couple shocks and are fine does not make it safe. It depends entirely on how you are shocked. If the voltage manages to cross your heart, it could kill you (such as from left to right hand). If your muscles spasm and you become unable to let go of the wire shocking you, it could kill you. If your heart just happens to be sensitive to shock, it could kill you.

Furthermore, exposed terminals and wiring leaves opportunity for shorts, which means fires. Even if it’s not intentional, something fall on it for example, causing a short. Then you have to hope that it’s bad enough to flip your circuit breaker before the wires catch fire.

David Hargrove says:

I have high quality Ender-3, CR-10, and many other sized spring steel beds with legit PEI surfaces. All kits include Wafer Magnets. david@isodynamics.net

wheadle says:

so much shmaller 19.04

oobasnork says:

I used to have the worst time with the minimal layer time setting in Cura on a Taz 5 that I owned. So many fails.

Mario Alfonso says:

pretty good video bro, but most of close ups where out of focus, which is kind of irritating

Siana Gearz says:

To make Cura observe minimum layer time, you either need to reduce the minimum speed, or enable head lift.

Bondy says:

Disappointing not seeing any more generic print results other than the test prints. Still looks impressive.

TheTiftof says:

Hey ! Do you have a Cura setting for this printer ?

chackokhan says:

Thanks for your review of the Ender 3. I’ve been really curious about 3D Printing and it’s nice to see your perspective on the Ender 3. As a result I even learned a few more things about this printer’s capabilities.

I did noticed some the specs for the upcoming CR-20, it has the same print area size as the Ender 3. It also has a flexible print bed. I’m really curious to see how it stacks up to the CR10S

thor svendsen says:

I believe that creality used to be called afinibot i could be wrong though does anyone know if this is true

Shane says:

You’re not printing ABS that ends up very strong without an enclosure. Period.

Philafxs says:

Is the spool holder long enough were you to mount it the other way around? That’s what I did on my E-2’s, having a simple filament guide to keep it from rubbing the Z-rod.

ilikenothingtoo says:

You can add a EZLAB and TH3d also has a filament runout sensor too.

IgnoreMyChan says:

Your videos are sooo amazing! But it would be so much better if you take more care of the focus, like at 11:45 where you show off that resumed print. That is completely out of focus and thus visually useless. But if that would mean you couldn’t do these in-dept videos, then just never mind. I wouldn’t want to miss your videos at all cost!

Adrian Collins says:

Maybe you yanking the cable out caused the layer shift, would have been better to just switch it off?

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