Time to give you my thoughts on this massive beast of a machine!
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Price: $861.33
Monoprice Delta PRO 3D Printer with (270 x 300 mm) Heated Glass Build Plate, Auto Leveling, Triple Fan, PID Tuning, Fully Assembled
The delta Pro 3D printer is simple, elegant, powerful, and robust created for the enthusiast and professional alike. It is easy to use with auto bed leveling, heated plate, and WiFi built in and can be assembled in 30 minutes or less. It is b... (as of January 10, 2020 - More infoProduct prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.)
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Comgrow Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Aluminum DIY with Resume Print 220x220x250mm
Modeling Technology：FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling） Printing Size：220*220*250mm Machine Size：440*410*465mm Package weight：8.6kg Max Traveling Speed：180mm/s Filament：1.75mm PLA Input：AC 100-265V 50-60Hz Output：DC 24V 15A 360W Layer Thickness：0... (as of January 7, 2020 - More infoProduct prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.)
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I believe the SBase board in the Little Monster uses the DRV8825 drivers so the salmon skin issue is probably this: http://www.engineerination.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html
Just search on Ali for “TL-Smoother” for a ready to go solution
Joe, thanks for another great review. I am with you on not worrying too much about the salmon skin, as I spend hours sanding most of the things that come off my printer, and I am learning how to use filler putty so I can sand them again! Great build volume, I like sturdy and reliable, and that seems to be both of those things.
Also… If I had a benchy that big, I would have to see if it floated in the tub. 😀
Hey Joe, the salmon skin effect is not because of a delta. It is because of the DRV8825 stepepr drivers are not generating smooth microsteps with low inductance stepper motors. The effects are more pronounce on Delta but you will experience it on any 3d printers that have DRV8825 + low inductance stepper motors. I’ve made a video back in last december. Basically I was the first guy that talked about how DRV8825 affects the print quality. Yes, there were a blog that identified the “missing steps” issue, but he never highlight how it affects the print quality. You can find the video here at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYI9XlADed8
How is the salmon skin effect compared to TAP-TAP printer from dagoma?
Great review. I am looking to upgrade from the Monoprice Make Select V2 and was considering the Creality CR-10, largely based on you March review. How do you think this printer compares?
Hey Joe, great vid.
The Tevo’s seem to require a fair bit of tinkering, but once you get them right the print quality is very impressive. I came across a guys print on the facebook group for the Tarantula and he printed a simple calibration cube with the letters in it, but it looked flawless. He said he had disabled all of his jerk values and he had been tinkering with K values to get the nozzle pressure exactly right. It allows for faster print speeds I believe also. Check out the Marlin guide, its interesting…
http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html
Duet Wifi with .9 steppers and it will print like glass.
Heh, didn’t realise it was called the Salmon Skin Effect, but that’s a good name for it and I recognise it from my Kossel Mini’s prints. For vases etc. it’s usually prettier than a more accurate print would be.
I always assumed the “Salmon Skin Effect” is a cute 3D plot of square root rounding errors but maybe it’s not? Maybe it’s stepper resolution?
GreatScott! Has some terrible prints made with this little monster. While Rclifeon , And the 3d printing nerd have AWESOME print quality . Why??
Hi joe!
Hey Joe! Did you watch nexi techs vid for this he installed TL smoothers and the results are great
You are the best
Excellent review, Thank you for doing so much for the community.
I LOVE that big benchy!
another great video joe. i would like to get my hands on one. but at the moment its saving time for a d7 🙂 have a great day matey. 🙂
Oh if I had the cash 😀
Thank you so much for you continued effort to bring your perspective on 3D printing. I have been looking at the Little Monster for a while and if I had the cash to spare that would be my next printer. Thanks again.
Thanks for sharing.
One question in general, how does it come, that you guys have the same printer almost at the same time for reviewing… Does Gearbest send them out to you simultaniously?
Thanks for the review, but as in a lot of times the GB coupon doesn’t work. It’s not only your’s. I’m annoyed with them and their pricing policies. I’m surprised that nobody else is complaining about their behaviours.
Love your reviews.
I feel like you kind of explained why you should have done testing at over 100mm/sec but then you just said you didn’t feel the need because it probably wouldn’t be good. It felt like the whole video, all the talking about the resonance artifacts, and then a big let down. I’d love to see you push it, and see how bad those affects get, and see if there might actually be a sweet spot that somewhat cancels them out. Tom, where are you?
The “Salmon skin” artifact might also come from DRV8825 itself, you can fix that by install series of diode between driver and motors.
Or you can buy assembled boards like TL-smoother or MKS smoother.
My large DIY delta — 490mm diameter, 670mm effective height doesn’t have this salmon skin effect. To say that all deltas have artifacts is not accurate. Let’s be realistic it uses a cheap MKS 1.3 base controller paired with some of the worst stepper drivers in DRV8825s. There is no excuse to have a $1k China kit machine using such substandard electronics. This is why using the MKS smoothie clone boards is a bad idea, they come with soldered on non removable drivers. A quality Smoothieboard clone and TMC2100 — clones if you like to save some money – (not even asking for TMC2660s) and the price point goes up $30 at most and the quality and reliability goes up several times fold. No one should buy this machine who is not immediately ready to swap out it’s controller — and that should not be the case with a kit build. A large delta should be using a 32 bit controller, quality stepper drivers, and ideally 0.9 degree (400 step) steppers — that’s what I have in mine, and it prints — as you like to say — beautifully. Plus I can push mine much faster than 100mm/sec using the 0.4mm nozzle, though I normally print at 120mm/sec with a 0.6mm volcano nozzle.
Anouther great video
Joe, the Tevo CEO talks to us on the facebook almost everyday, he is very present. If you have any issue go there and ask. Tevo tarantula group is the biggest but you also have the other models. He post pictures of the factory, office , previews of new products, videos, etc… It is a small company but they seek for quality. Also they have a new Germany hub now, which is great. If you want to review the new Sla from them ,or the new tornado, just go there and ask, you were referenced
many times by the users when they asked which youtuber should be sent review units.
Is de next video de tevo trantula build end review ?