Removable bed for ANY 3D Printer – Easy-Peelzy Review

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Comments

Zacknafin says:

That “uuuuugggghhhh…..” in the outro was worth it.

bobafettfanjordan says:

Hey, Angus! I’ve watched a lot of 3D printing videos and seen so many excellent things explained but for the life of me I cannot find anything explaining what that weird ring around the base of the print is for, or even what it’s called. Why is it there on some people’s prints but not others? What use does it have?

Builder's Mark says:

$12.65ish US = $17Aus

shenqiangshou says:

It’s weird, after all this time, we still haven’t solved the 1st layer issue. My goal is to have zero elephant footing, a nice smooth bottom layer (glossy or matte doesn’t matter), and of course, no bowing at edges. Btw, I never did blue tape. I think we’ve come too far to still have to deal with painter’s tape.
Here is a summary of my experiences:
– Thick layer of kapton: My Craftbot shipped with a removable bed with a thick sheet of kapton on it. I used it for many years (PLA only). No problems with PLA, heat bed to 60C, and things stick pretty well. Never had to use brims. Can raise temp to 70C, move nozzle further away, in order to minimize (but was never able to fully eliminate) elephant footing.
– Zebra Plate: I loved how I can just start a print with not heating the bed. However, any time you install a new bed, you gotta relevel it. And in doing so, I got the nozzle too close, and it literally put down unremovable layer of PLA, which then I had to spend quite a lot of effort and time trying to carefully scrape and remove. I tried PETG with it as well, but again, same sort of issues. Either too far and parts would bow at edges and come unstuck, or too close, and I’d have to painfully scrape the PETG off.
– Buildtak on glass: Very similar to my experience with the Zebra Plate. I found it no better than kapton. And startring far, and ever so slowly moving the nozzle closer to the bed, I enventually got it too close, and printed some PETG on it that was literally unremovable. Yeah, I destroyed a sheet of buildtak in a day of testing.
– Hair spray on 4mm glass: I feel like this is almost cheating. While this worked quite well, and made the room smell nice (if you pick a nicely scented hair spray), I did not like how I had to wash the sticky glue off after a while. Again, I feel like we’ve come too far to resort to this.
– PEI on glass: after hearing PEI is magic, I finally gave this a try not long ago. Now, not sure if it was the thin (picture frame) glass I used for this test, or I just had too many bubbles after gluing my PEI sheet down, but the end result is, the bed was so uneven, that some areas would stick fine, and other areas would just not. So end result was really not usable. At least not without just putting the nozzle too close and end up with a super squished 1st layer (and terrible elephant footing) anyway. So I gave up on this too.
– Just good old clean 4mm glass: This is what I am actually using now. PLA at 60C, no brim, parts stick fine, and release themselves once the glass cools a little. PETG at 70C, but needs brim many tmes (depending on shape of part). Elephant footing on PLA is not bad, since it doesn’t warp as bad, I can have the nozzle further away. PETG I am using brim many times, so elephant footing is a moot point.
So despite everything I’ve tried, I still haven’t solved the elephant footing issue. I know I can use a raft, but then I lose the smooth bottom layer. I think the least elephant footing I was able to achieve was with hair spray on glass.
Anyway, with regards to this Easy Peelzy thing, I am automatically suspicious given my zebra plate (which was actually a replacement bed), and my buildtak experience. Especially Angus, since your PETG print I can see you still used a brim, so that doesn’t seem that special.

Pauline Middelink says:

I would be interested if the magnetism of the bed influences inductive sensors. And if so, how much…

Alex2070 says:

I think I STICK to my glass build plate on my Anet A8, like my 3D prints

Acrimonious Mirth says:

They do 300mm²? Good.

iamdarkyoshi says:

Angus, can you give straight glass a shot? Setting it to slightly higher bed temps than normal with PLA has been working awesome for me, and the parts just… come off once it cools.

You’ve got to clean it really well with soap and water, no alcohol!

marco mutti says:

Do surfaces like this work well without a heated bed? (with pla)

john muller says:

Love it,,, want it,,,, gimmi gimmi

Logan Vinson says:

Or use 0.022-0.025″ 1095 spring steel with glue stick. Then put a bunch of neodymium magnets super glued to the under side of the build plate. Neodymium magnets have a higher working temp.

notuber says:

My Ender 3 is in the mail and I have to say to say– your recent videos are giving me anxiety…
But I really appreciate your work, thanks.

David says:

This seems like it will ap *peel* to many. Plus, the price makes it even more *attractive* .

CDF Freeman says:

Just saying this shit is awesome !!!!!Keep your bed hot and let that big dog extruder eat !!!!!!

Mod Shapes says:

Very nice! How does this compare to buildtak flexplate? Is it sharp around the edges?

vidznstuff1 says:

Not sure you realize, but you’re doing both the Kickstarter campaign and your followers a disservice by not doing an early (preferably before launch) demo/review of 3DP-related KS projects.

Punchin83 says:

I remember in a previous video awhile back that you said you had a Flashforge Finder as one of your early printers. I currently have one as my only printer and my print bed got damaged when I didn’t verify that my kids put it back in properly before starting a new print. As a result, I had a lot of bumps and such in my prints I had to sand down. My solution was to just take a hair dryer and remove the build tac like surface. I’m using just the straight glass now and it works VERY well. Other than the fact that it can be a pain to remove the part, what are you thoughts on using straight glass? Also, other than that one mention, I haven’t heard anything about your Finder in a long time. How much dust is on it now?

jim boren says:

Finally an easy way to remove stringy under extruded prints from your Ender 3

atdForge b.c says:

Good review. Nothing beats glass+glue. Tested using ABS, PLA, PETG on my Monoprice select Mini V2

Dennis Frank says:

This is what I did, but after a while the magnetic sheet started to loose it’s magnetism, and it was difficult to obtain an even bed because of the wavy polarities.

BV3D says:

Angus, how would you rate Easy-Peelzy against the BuildTak FlexPlate system?

vojta Nikdový says:

Lemon squeelzy

Jorge Chamier says:

they ship to U.S.?

jonmessenger says:

lemon Squealzy??? bit of a stretch there mate. LOL ya goofy kid

ZuroxTV says:

For anyone wondering it’s $12 USD

Donovan Morgan says:

Could you add a small steel sheet to the top instead of the build tak stuff? How strong are the magnetic sheets.

sgthp says:

How does it work with inductive bed leveling sensors?

BrainPinkers World says:

@makersmuse Have you ever tried the ultrabase from Anycubic? I never use anything else.

B. Winky says:

Planning to use the Ender3 in an enclosure to print ABS. Guess this is a no go

Kingston Anderson says:

You should wear makers muse tshirts instead of youtube ones

Old Dog says:

Nice! Just ordered two. They are back ordered, Angus.

Jimmy Brevoord says:

Its nice, but not worth $100

stm91 says:

Ever tried the Anycubic Ultrabase? I’ve never needed a scraper or had adhesion issues. Everything just pops off, especially once cooled.

doug dyson says:

looks great must try it out for myself OK

Kira Ditt says:

Anybody know if and what is the difference to the buildtak flex plate?

thebigdustin says:

I damaged the build surface on my ender 3 also. Mirror fixed that and made it flat all at the same time. Ive been printing parts like a madman since.

Steve Jackson says:

Noob here, only have a Michaelangelo which isn’t heated. Any thoughts on unsheathed bed usage?

Stig Brännlund says:

Thanks for video, but since its so soft, i think printing on glass still is better if you want a truly flat bottom to print on.
I mean that soft removable bed fixed to the aluminum heatbed still gives you the headache that aluminium will deform over time, which glass doesnt.
Prusa I3’s removable bedplate is much harder, i think thats a much better solution. And no i dont own a prusa i3 😛

Jon Aparo says:

The regular $110HK price translates to about $14.02 USD.

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