Here is my review of the Railcore II 300ZL 3d printer from Project R3D. This is the first production kit, assembled by my friend Robert, and put through some prints by myself.
#railcore #projectr3d #3dprinterreview
Get your own Railcore II 300ZL kit here:
https://www.projectr3d.com/products/
Open Source Docs and BOM:
https://railcore.org/doku.php?id=:en:start
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I was would have liked to see it running and doing an actual print.
looks like you could bake cookies in it too! 😀
I think the only weakness on this machine is the IR probe. I’d NEVER had success getting one of the differential IR probes to perform consistently in my environment on any of the machines I’ve tested with one.
Spot on review, congrats. I have build a custom version as I wanted to integrate a Titan Aero and extended the height by 5cm. projectr3d.com even did some custom sides for me. Otherwise I followed the BOM list. It prints absolutely fantastic and ridiculously fast. Build is easy with the excellent guide. It is just a lot of screws…. Tony’s Simplify3D configuration worked great immediately, so it didn’t have a single failed print yet. Lubrication is super important to avoid Z banding. IR probe works with PEI but you have to run the leveling 3 times. Using it for a week without major issues. Looking at the probe grid however you see that dirt bubbles etc will interfere easily with the probe( all within 0.15mm). I now use an NPN Omron proximity probe much better compared to the IR probe for the PEI bed.
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Joel – is the video of Robert building it posted anywhere?
Odd, I got a second notification for this vid. One right after watching it. And for some reason the thumbs up I gave it is not there. I had to re thumb it..
Printing Nylon with a steel nozzle ( and esp. at high speed) will require much higher temps than usual.
Robert did a great job on his super-long build stream! It was fun to watch. The Etch-a-sketch gantry system isn’t CoreXY though, it’s a standard crossed XY gantry like an Ultimaker printer.
This is the reason why I refuse to buy a CR-10. I still need the money to buy this though.
Great video! And quick thing about bed leveling probes, the bl touch as tested by thomas sandlander is by far one of the most inaccurate probes on the market
I really like your videos but you cant compare ender 3 wirh this one lol. The kits is 10× the price of the ender 3…
where can I watch that full assembly video?
Great review, the kit looks amazing in so many ways. I think your points good and bad are spot on. I don’t think this kit is for me until it matures and has stronger support. I’m not into the “tinker” category. I just want to design and print things, but I do desire the layer detail. I’d be totally all in for a resin printer if it weren’t for the whole, toxic, smelly, messy bit. So this printer is really exciting from that perspective and I’ll be keeping an eye on it. But I think this printer represents a step in the right direction to bring us greater detail and accuracy at ever faster speeds.
Damnit they dont ship to Australia. I want to get a good printer for manufacturing and printing fast, and this seems like it would work great!
Nice beard
I have made a hypercube and can print a twisted case at 140mmps haven’t tried higher but it was fine 🙂
For the jam it might be that the e3d spacer is still in the bowden coupler this should be removed or else the bowden shifts
That Benchy printed at 75mm/s blew my mind. I really need to build this printer. I hoped you put this printer on your table and you did. Thanks Joel!
Hi Joel I have 4 printers a MK3 that I didn’t build, two wanhao duplicators i3, v2.1 and a plus and a geeetech Prusa i3 pro b that I did build. Would you recommend this printer for me or do you think it would be to advanced for me? Keeping in mind I don’t really know anything about electronics and coding.
Either you or Sean +1 for Rick and Morty true level. I was laughing for a solid 3 min! Now I have to decide between this and a resin printer in February lol. I tried finding info on this tool changer, but as far as I can see it allows swapping of heads?
3d printing nerd you should test a precision piezo it’s a great probe!
god I want one of these soooooo badly. I saw some of the 0.02mm (not a typo you read that right) layer height prints this machine can achieve and they are truly awe inspiring !!
I can print benchy’s like that all day long with my ender 2 army. …… at 20mm/s max speed !!! this thing does it equal or BETTER at 75mm/s
staggering. GOD I want one of these things so bad. who do I have to eat to get one………
as for bed leveling. I question if (within a reasonable price point) if its even possible to achieve the needed resolution with a mechanical bed detection solution.
meaning I don’t think a mech switch solution can level with enough precision to achieve the better than 0.02 resolution you NEED to get a 0.02 layer height.
Woah that’s expensive. At least to me. I’ll stick with my previously broken cr10. But I think it’s super cool though!
Joel i’m just gonna guess that you were printing most of those models (if not all) at rather high speeds, but i don’t think you factored in the most probable cause of the stringiness.
When printing at higher speeds you’ll have to set your hotend to a higher temperature (by about 5 to 10 degrees) because the filament is rushing through the nozzle and doesn’t have as much time to heat up.
I’m not sure if you’ll read this by the time you return the Railcore but I’d really love to see if your results change with a higher hotend temperature 🙂
Also, how is this printer capable of printing so fast with absolutely no ghosting?!?!
Pfff, this is my next printer for sure. Sorry Prusa. 🙂
At this point, I’d just like a printer that I can update the firmware on easily. Been trying to update my CR-10 firmware for months, but the Arduino returns errors that, so far, more practiced hands than mine have not had an answer to.
Watch out Josef Prusa. lol
What’s the difference between the R3D Railcore II and their D1700 printer?
For nylon I have found a temperature change of a few degrees hotter can make a major difference. Also no fan. On my lulzbot mini the nylon was breaking apart easily at 235, but once i bumped it up 15 degrees it was perfect.
Regarding the cooling – given the Duet and such, I would assume you could push this thing well above 75mm/s. I wonder if you could push this thing above 100mm/s at which point more cooling might be needed. That said, I would agree you probably never would be going to 100% fan but, I guess I would rather have something OP and pull it back than have something not up to snuff and never being able to achieve what I need.
Nice review!
The extra fan power is for bigger nozzles so it’s actually a good thing. With a 1.2mm nozzle you’ll have it closer to 100%
Great review Joel, thanks!
I’m thinking about getting a anet a8 and flash it should I buy it or no?
Sorry, did not quite get it: is the double-heigth variant just another variant of the reviewed kit printer, or is it a different model? If a different model, what are the technical differences, except for the Z-axis length? Thanks.
wish i could afford
Thanks for this Joel, I’m going to retrofit an X5SA kit for starters as it could benefit from most of the frame/rail mods, then a new self sourced build once the BOM maths have been done by me for a 400mm Z , saved me designing one from scratch as this incorporates all my ideas apart from a mech bed sensor, not seen the 3 Z motors before so that is a winner!