MicroDelta Rework 3D Printer Kit Review

Today we’re checking out a little delta 3D Printer kit, the MicroDelta Rework from Emotion-tech! Is it any good? Watch to find out.

Buy one here – https://www.reprap-3d-printer.com/product/1234568619-microdelta-rework-3d-printer

New to 3D Printing? Watch this! https://youtu.be/uE1pK0qtU18

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Intel says:

cat model?

Gunnar Freyr says:

I like Emotion-Tech, have few parts i got from them and never been disapointed..Always nice quality and fairly ok prices

Shane Ottinger says:

sweet, works better than the Chauchat 😉

utetrahemicon says:

Another great video, except comment dites-vous, “Where’s the bathroom”?
Have you reviewed the Flsun Delta Kossel Mini?

reasonablebeing says:

Good review. The print volume is too small for the price especially since no heated bed. I bought an Anycubic Linear Plus kit for a little over $200 shipped on special with a 230mm by 300mm build volume and includes a heated bed and linear rails. With a little help from the YT assembly vids and especially user comments for calibration it was not a challenging build. It is a great printer and fast. I’ve yet to encounter a “perfect” kit that did not need some hardware added or substituted due to screw lengths, etc. I’m really rallying against any more reviews of “mini” printers. The market has moved beyond their features and print volume bang for your buck with larger printers.

Guillaume Romagny says:

The French viewers like your videos. God saves the Queen. Où sont les toilettes, s’il vous plaît ? Merci

Bill Blackburn says:

Hi Angus

Great Video.

Another thing that could cause the Rails to jam is Rail ends that are not square? If they have not been faced off in a Lathe they will probably not be square. When you tighten the screws the rail will bend (and jam the Bushings) as the screw tries to pull the un-square end of the Rail against the end plate. I have seen Rails that were only cut off with a Saw and not very square. If you have a Lathe you could square the ends up and see if that fixes the problem. Just remember that the Rails need to be all the same length, otherwise you will end up with another problem. If this doesn’t fix the jamming issue than it most likely is the end plates are not flat.

I Subscribed a while back and enjoying your Videos very much. Thank you.


Tim Page says:

Machine looks five years out of date

Terko Krieger says:

i don not really like delta 3D printers good video tho always want to see if there is a good Delta

Marcus Kuo says:

Hello, I am thinking of buying my first 3d printer with a budget of around $300. I don’t want to buy the mp select mini, because the print bed is quite small. What would be your recommendation for me? Thanks a bunch for your time!

John Ratko says:

Does an enclosure serve any purpose when in use? Or is it just to keep dust out when not in use?

USWaterRockets says:

Not all deltas make salmon skin. I think the artifacts on this printer are simply due to the firmware being not optimized for the 32-bit CPU.

Dave Lister says:

Hey Angus, could you review the vector v3 printer, which is a self assemble subscription magazine based printer.

Miguel Rubio says:

Is this delta better than the anycubic kosser?

frederickfarrell says:

Hey if you’re in WA I’m getting a kodama obsidian in December that you’re welcome to borrow for a review

Garand Sound says:

Is the MicroDelta the same size as Kossel mini? It appears to me to be the same as far as build volume.

Charles-A Rovira says:

I put together an Anycubic Kossel 3D printer just to satisfy my curiosity, but, frankly, I’m sticking with my CR-10 with dual z-axis add-on because it’s a better printer at a better price.

Nicholas Craig says:

Hi Angus,
What are your thoughts on the P3 Steel 3d Printer frame. Could you do a review?
Love your videos,
Nick Craig

Jamie says:

Print quality is not impressive. Some parts don’t fit. Weirdo silicone sock. Sheet metal not well made. This sounds terrible. You could buy your usual Wanhao i3 for this price and get much better results and experience.

WTF BBQ says:

Screw those kits ……. Assembling one is a headache. CR-10 assembly is as far as I’ll tolerate.

Nicholas Ness says:

You should review the seemecnc rostock max v3

Kevin Gill says:

Marcus – go for an ANET A8. It’s good value and there’s tremendous support. It’s a kit though.

Max2X Movies says:


Stüntkök says:

I am always cautious during withdrawals…

Adam Bryant says:

The smell does clear up after a while but the hexagon hotend is not a good end.

VampCaff says:

Gotta love that delta blobbing. Lol this seems like a good machine but the price seems unreasonable. I would suggest the flsun delta with the upgraded linear bearing rails and the heated bed. It comes in at less than $300USD. all of the parts are injected molded, no 3d printed parts. Which is nice.

me217 says:

thats a lot of money for not much build volume, i like my cocoon create touch but sometimes wish it was bigger, may have to invest in a cr10 in the future and just keep this for ABS prints.

VampCaff says:

It seems like the hands down choice right now is the CR-10 you can’t beat the quality for the price, or that build volume!

goslmka says:

Will there be an update for the Flux Delta+? Tks

Gauthier Quercia says:

I have one and my print quality is way better, read other review, look that either he had a crappy batch or he doesn’t know how to use it…

revengefrommars says:

Can you review the Anycubic Kossel (also a delta printer)?  It’s half the price of this printer and has a larger build area.  No standard auto-leveling or heated bed though.

Tam Gaming says:

Awesome honest review!!! Thanks!

Andrew E says:

Hey Angus you really are to be commended for your “no money has changed hands” approach and the lack of affiliate links. It adds a lot of credibility to what you have to say about the product. I’m always suspicious when printers are reviewed, given a hearty thumbs-up and then you are directed to affiliate links in the description.

JAT.MN says:

Interesting machine.. thanks for the review man!

Andre S. says:

Can you make a Video where you can explain how to tweak a 3D Printer with a few Problems like:
Over Extrusion, Wrongs Steps, wrong retraction Settings and other Problems?

You can use for this a Kit that you have to review anyway. 🙂
This would be verrrrrrrry usefull. 😉

PlasmaBurns says:

Here’s a question based on pure ignorance – Has anyone tried using Weed Eater Wire in a 3d printer? …it’s plastic right? (and cheap)

Tristan Frodelius says:

“No money has changed hands” … hands, eh? What about bank accounts?

Jaapieh says:

Okay, just to bring this out there. I’ve got the previous version of this printer, and please, if you’re thinking of buying this printer, consider looking around for printers with bigger print-areas first. The circle/triangle form can be quite annoying for making the most basic things.

Counterpoint says:

Hi, Angus,
great to see you reviewing the printer I’ve bought a few months ago (and couldn’t quite get to work… after all that time… but I’ll come to that)! Just thought I’d give a few impressions out of my experience until now, as you seem to be having much more success than me with this printer 😉 – maybe you can shed a new light on my troubles, with your broader experience 🙂 (and sorry if I’m venting a bit here – as I said, this ‘drama’ has been ongoing for months here, with no resolution in sight yet…) :

– Sliders binding on the smooth rods: For me, this was the biggest problem with the build of this printer. The build instructions do say something along the very simple lines of “If the slider binds, loosen and re-tighten the screws, until you get a good, light movement.” Great idea – if only it would work that easy. I ended up with ~three hours of “tighten up screws – slider binding up on trying – loosen screws – rotate rods a bit – tighten screws – slider still binding – rinse/repeat…” Following that method, I could have screwed around with those screws (sorry for the pun…) until I’m blue in the face. So, I had to resort to adding a little “combinatorics game” to the mix: Which pair of rods, used with one another, with which end up (and yes, this _does_ make a difference…), gives the least friction at the required movement range (as the lower end of the rods is never actually used anyway)? This took me another ~4+ hours, and I’m still not quite at a point I’d really call optimal, but at least at something resembling “should be decently useable” – the steppers should be able to handle the remaining forces pretty well, I guess. And when I remember Joe’s (3D Maker Noob) live build – he got that part over it in a little over an hour – me, it took all of eight to get to a decent result… And according to the classic ‘rumble test’ (roll rod over flat surface – if it gives an inconsistent, repeating rumbling noise, it’s not quite straight…), my six rods are about as straight as you can get (at least without paying more for these things alone than for the whole printer)…

– Spoolholder: They put the according .gcode file to the original, intended spool holder onto the “firmware” microSD-Card, so you can select and print it from there. Only, if this is your first and only printer, this kinda creates a “chicken-and-egg” situation: You _need_ a well-working spool holder to _print_ a working spool holder. So, I tried a spoolholder from an ANet A8 that I could lend (same basic shape as the one you had standing on top), which didn’t work too well, either: I once have dared to lay the according filament spool on its side onto the bed – which now gives me the really ‘funny’ effect of the (before then pretty well-wound) filament sometimes crossing over itself and thereby snagging on itself at every inopportune moment, which blocks the spool from rotating and creates more resistance than I could get the extruder to reliably handle. Result: no really reliable filament feed, no extrusion, prints falling to pieces due to missing layers (printing air…) As I said, very funny *grrrrr*. So, I’m wondering how printing with the spool on its side is supposed to work anyway, roller bearing underneath and all aside, when the filament windings start to slip and snag on one another…

– Which brings me to my next trouble spot: tension on the extruder “clamping mechanism”. I have yet to find a really good ‘sweet spot’ between “not enough pressure on the filament, not advancing anymore at the slightest provocation” and “too much pressure, extruder carving into filament instead of moving it”. Seems a little like a razor-thin mountain ridge to me to find a reliable working point: a little too far off the edge, and you’re going downhill fast with your prints…

– And then there’s the one snag that absolutely stops me from getting anything approaching useable out of what should be a great device, even the aforementioned spoolholder: I have yet to get a straight print from it – it all looks like someone pushed the print over to one side, from one of the corners to the opposite edge, bending and/or layershifting what should be a straight, upright line, and this effect is getting worse with every try… Now, on a cartesian printer, I could see where layershifts could come from, but from a Delta? Doesn’t make one bit of sense to me – shouldn’t skipping steps screw up the shape of the object as well? And the “bending” part I don’t have any clue at all about – or is this just “layershifting on a lesser scale”?

TOPE designs says:

I’ve one (micro delta rework) and after run your test with ABS at 235º/90ºC the 0,25 is tight but it roll, the 0.3 is spinning, samething is wrong with your setting 😉

MC's Creations says:

Hey, make a giveaway! 🙂

Ryan Garrison says:

5 to 8 mm retraction for Bowden is what S3D recommends. What values did you try?

yKekS says:

French, Metal, Fun to assemble~

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