Anycubic Photon 3D Printer Review

Resin 3D Printers are capable of incredibly detailed 3D Prints, but should you buy one? Watch to find out!

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Manfred Knorr says:

I won a bidding war on eBay and got mine for under AU$500. I have only printed the cube demo so far but no one commented on the smell in the dining room where it was printing. Also, the cleanup wasn’t a big issue for me. I didn’t worry about the gloves because, as long as you are careful, you’re not going to get any on your hands. I just wiped out the tray with towels and followed with a towel and metho. I love this machine.

dizingof says:

This takes me back to 2013 when i first posted a “Proof of concept” that LCD can be used to mask UV/Visible light for high resolution resin 3d printing – – This is also a “prior Art” to combat any Patent trolls..

Roof Repair Techs says:

This is so cool getting this DLP 3D printing at this price.

fOwl play says:

Will there be a “Node 3” similar to this?

Riley Pearce says:

I know you weren’t disguising it, but your only negative points you made were about resin printers in general and your “it depends” conclusion really came down to whether you’re okay with resin rather than the simplicity of FDM; you didn’t say anything bad about this printer specifically.

You really should have just made this a “DLP vs FDM” video, because your conclusion really didn’t incorporate this specific printer at all. Sure you gave glowing remarks about its accuracy at the start and mentioned it in the end, but it was just super weird how you structured this review. You honestly should have reviewed this with the assumption that people are familiar with the drawbacks of resin and were interesting in the positives and negatives of this printer specifically. Mentioning the drawbacks of DLP printers in general when reviewing a specific printer is just odd and frankly a little misleading. Your conclusion really should have been “yes definitely get this especially if you can’t afford a formlabs machine because it’s amazingly accurate, and the only drawback is the stronger smell of the resin this machine comes with.”

Aligayah says:

1440p isn’t 2k…

Echo Zoolu says:

If I had more space than a 1 bedroom apartment I would but that so fast

Ruud the Diamond says:

Well, someone woke up and smelled the Anycubic Photon.
It has been out for months. I’m surprised they gave you one for review this late, considering your 400k subs. Try to get your hands on a Uniz UDP, fastest resin printer ever. Backed on Kickstarter, shipped this month. Biggest 3d secret no ones talking about.

knob knit says:

These kind of LCD DLP printer have a questionable LCD life, because UV light will damage the LCD screen, causing the printer to fail after several months of use.

snakeshit says:

Can you print yourself a tshirt that fits?! Lol

Cuber the Gamer says:

Could u try to experiment with Möbius strips(one sided shape)?

AllAboutGames says:

Amazing review. I certainly need that printer especially as it doesn’t need a stylus.

Wim Widdershins says:

Many moons ago, we would get prototypes made on machines using this process (uv laser) that cost ~$1M. Each successful print could cost us $2000-3000. It’s phenomenal that I can buy the whole printer for a fraction of the price of one print now.

Ghostcorps Hoffman says:

Thanks Angus,

I have been waiting for this review for a while.

I have had a Photon for about 6 months now and while I agree with everything you said, I would never go back. I would love to have a larger build volume but with decent software, it it not too much effort to cut a larger model into parts. Or, you could just use FDM for the bulky parts and resin for the details…?

The smell is quite special but I am surprised you have not set up a fume cupboard. Simply pick up a ducting fan and some ducting, cut a hole in a box of some kind and run the duct outside. Plonk the printer in there and you are in business.

What I was hoping to hear about was a couple issues that I am constantly in combat with. Firstly, if the platform is not perfectly clean, it can fail to hold onto the raft in some places. Other times it holds on so well that it actually tilts the locked platform due to the strain between it and the film; resulting in a raft that has thicker layers on one edge. I tighten the platform to the point that I feel the tool may break but this still seems to happen sometimes. I just have to keep trying till it works. Luckily, I am very comfortable with the pause button, which I am surprised you did not mention. I use it regularly through a print, once it has paused it will lift enough to assess, I like to slide a soft tool over the film to see if anything has become stuck while I am there.

If you have any solutions or ideas to get around this, please let me know 🙂

Oh and one last thing :p when you calibrate it, do you get it to the point of friction, or just past that so it holds the paper a little bit?

Andrew Myers says:

So, is resin printing temperature independent, or does the setting of the resin by the UV screen somehow affected by it?

Macek says:

Nice review, like your way how you see operation around this kind of machine and review it, but one thing which you said and its not quite true, in 6:47 – you can pause the print, photon wait to complete actual layer then in pause bed will go up, then you can see if the supports are good or not and you dont need to wait until print will be in height when you can see it. 🙂 Also display has some lifespam and need to be changed after some time. Anycubic saying about half year in very high use.

ian bertenshaw says:

What i would like to know is there anyone thinking outside square on 3d printing ? I can think of 3 different things to experiment with but would they work – i have no idea !’

Jimmy Scott says:

Is that what a lot of the high end ones have beds that tilt so it doesn’t pull straight up like what your talking about

TheDemonFerrari says:

Are you talking australian dollars? On amazon it’s 39 dollars more than 500

John Heaney says:

I’ve had one for a few weeks now and I think it produced really awesome quality parts. I’m using it for functional parts; gears and housings and knobs, etc. Way better resolution than my Prusa MK2S.

The smell is bad enough that you cannot run it next to you in your office. I put it in a separate room in front of a window with an inexpensive dual fan that can exhaust the smell. It’s perfect now, in the summer. I don’t know what I will do in the winter, yet. Note that it isn’t just the smell of the resin. There’s a lot of IPA involved in post processing.

That said, it was a nightmare for about a week and then I got a process down and it isn’t a problem at all anymore. It’s no harder to use than my Prusa, with its wait time, filament changes, snipping the ends, waiting for the nozzle ooze before the print starts, cleaning off the plastic stringing, cleaning the nozzle, etc. Dealing with the resin really isn’t bad. I printed a custom funnel with my Purse to get the resin back in the bottle. I printed a lid for the resin tray (again, on the Prusa) and clamp it down on top of the tray with the same screws that hold down the tray, so I don’t have to return the resin to the bottle for a long time. I learned to use an old hand plane blade, holding in flat on the platform and knocking it with a piece of wood, while holding the part. It pops right off. Most things I can pop of without even taking off the platform, so I can literally get another print going within a minute. I spent $2 on two plastic food storage bins with lids. I filled one with a couple inches of cheap denatured alcohol, which is use for the initial part cleaning. The second one has 93% IPA, which I use for the final cleaning. It takes just a few minutes to clean a part and snap the lids back on for next time.

I don’t think the processing is that bad at all. I do go through lots of paper towels, though.

The resin is about four times the cost of the comparable filament. I just recently started using Nova3D (clear). It’s fantastic for this printer and cost about $70 US for a liter.

I find the complaints about failed prints due to the “suction” issue are overstated. They say to never print flat surfaces parallel to the platform. Nonsense. I have printed watertight housings flat on the platform with no support that literally fill up 80% of the platform area. The trick is that you need tiny horizontal relief pinholes from any enclosed spaces to the outside perimeter. Otherwise, the platform will try to lift the entire enclosed volume of uncured resin and it will fail. Afterwards, you pick up a drop of liquid resin with a toothpick and drop it onto the pinhole. It will be wicked into the hole and sealed when you post process it with the UV light. Depending on the model, you may not even need to patch the pinhole. You do need to do that in your model, though.

This technology is still pretty early days. I still use my Prusa for larger items and to use up my stacks of filament. There are many more options for filament than resin, so I definitely use both printers. They each have characteristics that make some prints possible only on one printer or the other, so I recommend having one of each.

The_little White_knight says:

With the welcome to the channel for new subs I realized though I have been watching your for months I had not subbed yet

john rosenskjold says:

I don’t understand. Didn’t you just say thanks for being sent a printer and that no money have changed hands.?

Mayku says:


3D4Ureel says:

You can pause the printing to see how it is going. When you do it at early stages the platform moves upwards to let you see. You can even add more resin if needed and continue normally.
Wearing a respirator helped a lot with the smell.
Their slicing software sometimes misses important areas that require supports. I prefer to use meshmixer to add supports, to hollow and adding holes.

Michael Norland says:

The thing about curing parts under the sun is that they cure best in low/0 oxygen environments soooo the parts would ideally be submerged in a water tank for quick cures. O2 significantly inhibits curing of uv resins. But I will say this is a great review and all the things you point out about the pit falls and and cautions of resin printing as of now are spot on. Keep on keeping in Angus your content is amazing!

Kyle Bartholomew says:

The Form 2 also has the issue with prints sticking. You can filter the resin and clean the build tank after that happens, but usually its much easier just to replace the resin and the build tank. Its very frustrating when this happens with the Form 2 because the resin is so expensive.

Murphey Law says:

One of my big concerns about household resin printers is the organic solvents they use. As a former biologist (and someone who has done enough practical organic chemistry to last several lifetimes), I’ve dealt with a lot of organic solvents, and they’re not good on a human body. Having a machine pluming them into the air in or near one’s living space is just asking for headaches and heightened cancer risks, not to mention respiratory problems.

Now, if one kept it in separate garage or in a well-designed fume hood, that’s a different story. But, let’s be honest, the average consumer is probably not going to take that level of precaution.

danterj1990 says:

What happen if you touch this without gloves ???

PlasmaBurns says:

BREAKING NEWS!!!! July 27th Cody Wilson will release all his 3D printed Gun files and it will be 100% legal to print your own gun – no background check, no license, no more gun control!!! Now we get to see which 3D Print channels are actual Americans and which arent. YAY!!!!

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